050828 Bamford

Overview - Bamford has only just been opened to the public, so it's another of the lesser-visited crags. A very blustry day on the edge, but that (and the dead sheep staring at us) made the final few routes feel wickedly exposed. Smoked Salmon (Dawes 2* E8 7b) is another of "The blankest bits of vertical grit ever TM".

Quebec City (1* VS 4c):

Led - Nice warm-up traverse, with a range of sloping holds in the upper break to a final layback. Gear's as good as it looks. Ted seconded.

Bilberry Crack (2* VS 5a):

Solo - I seconded Ted first, then, feeling I'd missed an experience, went back and solo-ed it. I was right - there are two cruxes, the first and last moves. Both of those, and the moves in between are gentle bridging on reasonable holds with gear in the corner crack. Long Tall Sally and Great Portland Str. wannabes should try this solo as a warm-up.

The Crease (2* E1 5a):

Led - Bad gear at something like half height, and a 5a reach for the top. An obvious comparison to Three Pebble Slab due to the grade confirms the E1 grade, but it deserves the stars for it's own merits. Great pinches, sloping ledges, and underclings have you reaching the top way too quickly.

Wrinkled Wall (2* VS 4c):

Seconded Ted - Another great arete for just sitting on, looking down the valley. Relatively easy climbing, but it has the limestone trick of giving you too many holds and hence making it harder to work out the moves... Gear is good enough to make it safe, but is spaced to make sure it stays interesting.